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Julia Robb: The Return of the Native -- Just Like Old Times
Neely’s Brown Pig restaurant is hard to spot from Marshall’s Grand Avenue. The small, dingy-white building blends into the street. Once inside, though, most Texans know where they are.

Neely’s is the traditional small-town barbecue joint where everybody knows your name, but where the help, including co-owner Sally Lou Cobb, still call you “baby” and “sugar.”

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